Why is Replacing Brake Rotors with new pads on your European vehicle is necessary? This is because old rotors can have uneven wear, grooves, or be too thin after a full brake pad life, which degrades new pad performance. It is standard practice for German cars like Porsche, VW, Audi, Mercedes-Benz, and BMWs to recommend replacing pads and rotors together as a matching set. This is to ensure optimal braking and prevent issues like noise or shuddering. 

The Reasons Why
Replacing Brake Rotors
is Necessary

• Uneven surface: After a brake pad’s lifespan, the rotor’s surface is no longer flat. New pads require a smooth surface to “bed in” properly.
• Grooves and scoring: Worn pads can create deep grooves on the rotor surface, which will prematurely wear down new pads, cause noise, and reduce braking performance.
• Minimum thickness: Rotors have a minimum thickness specification. If they’ve been worn down below this point, they are unsafe and must be replaced.
• Warping: A vibrating or pulsing brake pedal often indicates that the rotor is warped, which is a condition that cannot be fixed with new pads alone.
• German car specific recommendations: German manufacturers like Audi often recommend replacing rotors with every pad service to ensure consistent, high-performance braking.
• Corrosion: Over time, rotors can develop rust or corrosion, especially on the edges. While resurfacing can remove some surface rust, it can be cheaper and more effective to replace them, particularly if there is significant corrosion. 

What to do?

• Inspect: Meister Werks qualified service technicians will measure your rotors and pads to ensure they are above the minimum thickness. Furthermore, we check for signs of warping, deep grooves, or excessive rust.
• Replace: If the rotors have  wear, grooves, warps, or too thin, they need replacement. After 100% worn pads, the rotors typically need replacement. However, we will let you know the pad and rotor thickness. As a result, it’s highly likely that your vehicle will need new pads and rotors. This is so they operate with proper function and safety.
• Resurfacing is Not a Option: Resurfacing is an option for some vehicles. However, replacing is necessary on all modern European vehicles. This is because resurfacing removes too much material, making them thinner than the worn rotor.  Resurfacing seams like it could be cheaper. However, the additional labor time it takes to resurface. This additional labor costs the same as New Brake Rotors.

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We are often asked to address The True Cost of Cheap & ‘Why do we need to replace additional parts’, when repairing our customers European cars. The answer is, due to European vehicles intricate engineering, these vehicles demand specialized care. At Meister Werks, we understand that quick and cheap fixes often lead to long-term headaches. While attempting to save money upfront, the “band-aid” approach to European auto repair can ultimately cost you more and waste your time. More over, it always makes it more difficult, time consuming, and in the end, more costly by not replacing associated parts during a repair. For example, if your car has 80,000 miles and a part breaks, the associated parts that are not broken still have 80,000 miles on them. Consequently, it is highly likely that those parts will fail when installing a brand new part.

The Pitfalls of the True Cost of Cheap aka “Just the Necessary Part”

The allure of a low-cost repair is understandable. However, focusing solely on one failed part ignores the interconnected nature of your vehicle’s systems. When a component fails, it often indicates underlying issues or accelerated wear in related parts.

For example, replacing a worn-out water pump on your European car, without addressing the aging thermostat or radiator hoses, that might seem efficient. However, the new pump places increased stress on these older, weaker components, leading to their premature failure. For example, belts, tensioner assemblies, and idler pulleys. Due to the True Cost of Cheap, you’re back in the shop, facing another repair bill and downtime.

Furthermore, cheap, aftermarket parts often lack the quality and precision of genuine or original equipment supplier (OES) parts. This can result in poor fitment, reduced performance, and a shorter lifespan, ultimately requiring replacement sooner than expected.

The Meister Werks Approach: Comprehensive and Correct

At Meister Werks, we believe in doing the job right the first time. This means:

• Thorough Diagnostics: We don’t just fix the symptom; we identify the root cause. OBDII output tests and guided diagnostics on our factory scan tools will allow us to identify check engine lights and/or poorly running engines.
• Genuine or OES Parts: We use only the highest-quality parts that meet or exceed manufacturer specifications and will never void any warranties.
• Comprehensive Repairs: We address all related components that show signs of wear or potential failure. For example, when replacing a drive belt, we highly suggest replacing the idler and tensioner assemblies while performing this service. About 90% of the time, a new belt will cause pulleys to squeak and fail days or weeks after the replacement.
• Preventative Maintenance: We advise on preventative measures to avoid future issues. Another example, when replacing spark plugs, we highly suggest replacing the ignition coil packs at the same time.

True Cost of Cheap – Why Replacing Related Parts is Essential

Consider a suspension repair. Replacing a worn control arm without addressing the tie rod ends or ball joints is a short-sighted approach. The new control arm will place stress on these aging components, which are likely experiencing similar wear. This leads to premature failure, alignment issues, and compromised handling.

By replacing all related parts simultaneously, we ensure:

• System Harmony: All components work together optimally, extending their lifespan. (Belts, Idlers, and Tensioners)
• Improved Performance: Your car handles and performs as intended. (Shocks, Shock Mounts, & Stabilizers links)
• Long-Term Savings: You avoid repeat repairs and costly breakdowns.
• Peace of Mind: You know your vehicle is safe and reliable.

Investing in Quality, Not Quick Fixes

European cars deserve meticulous care. At Meister Werks, we prioritize quality, precision, and long-term reliability. We understand that a well-maintained vehicle is an investment in your safety, comfort, and driving enjoyment.

In conclusion, don’t let a “cheap” repair become an expensive mistake. Trust Meister Werks to provide the expert care your European car deserves. We do it right, so you can drive with confidence.

Meister Werks Parts Brands

* We also carry Genuine Mini, Volvo, SmartCar, etc., and all OES Manufacturer Brands for all makes and models. 

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Last week our tech Jonathan and I were able to repair Craig’s (Rennfilms), 1960 Porsche 356b shifter. When driving this beautiful Porsche, It was difficult to find gears and made very sloppy shifts. This was due to the fact that it was missing the main lower ball pivot. It also had some poorly fabricated sheet metal, installed from the previous owner, which was not helping the situation. We had talked to Craig about this concern the last couple times he was in for service and seat bracket fabrication. We decided now was the time to do this.

Starting the project

First, I found a photo off the internet of the exact part we needed. This is really all we had to go by. Since we only had the shifter itself. The other measurements I had were the spring size and the dimensions for opening of the lower stick. I brought the photo into Adobe Illustrator and resized the photo so the hole size slightly larger that the known lower stick size of 20mm. Based off of that, I extrapolated the degree in which the photo was taken. After that, I calculated the outer ball perimeter, ball height and overall height. 

Next, I opened up Fusion 360 to start drafting our CAD file. Using our notes from the internet JPG image dimensions, I was able to come up with this drawing.

The 3d Printer

Since we print replacement parts with high temp resin, we must calculate the shrink rate. This is typically between 1-3%. Using a little simple math, that number needed to be around 103%. For safe measure, we printed 100% through 104%. Furthermore, there was going to be some margin of error. It takes about and hour to print these, so we wanted every option when we started assembling the shifter.. The 104% part fit best, although the 103% would have worked, we wanted some tolerance.

After the part came out we post processed it in a wash / cure station. Washing it with 99% isopropyl alcohol for 10 minutes and curing it with high intensity UV light for 6 minutes. This will harden the resin and prevent it from failing in the future.

While I was drafting and printing the parts, Jonathan media blasted the shifter housing and put a light coat of satin epoxy paint on it. We would have powder coated this in house, but the customer was picking up the same day. Powder coating will add a few hours to the project. If we need to make any adjustments in the future, we will powder coat it. Disassembly is fairly simple so it shouldn’t take too much addition time.

Assembly

After post processing the parts, Jonathan and I took them to the bench to test the sizes and fitment. You can see from this photo that the fit was spot on at 104%.

From here, we performed a dry fit before lubricating the mechanism. They dry fit felt night and day better, and that was without any grease. We removed the shifter for the last time, greased up all the components and reinstalled the shifter assembly. The feel was 100% OEM and each gear was defined, with no lateral movement while in gear. Reverse felt so much different than before, which might take a little getting use to for the customer. (In a good way)

In Conclusion

Overall we were very pleased with how this shifter turned out. The customer was very pleased with the results. Considering the short wait time to make the part and its functionality, It’s pretty amazing that we can replicate parts like this. 15 years ago, this was mythology.

Since we have six different 3D printers (SDA resin and FDM filament), we have the ability to print polyurethane and other synthetic components. With build plate dimensions from 4-1/2″ x 2-1/2″ x 6″ tall all the way up to 16″ x 16″ x 17″ Tall – The possibilities are almost endless.

Information / Schedule

For more information on how to get your classic European vehicle or Porsche repaired, please call 425-254-0627. You can also email us by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from the former Boeing Store and on the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

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Porsche Brake Pads Squeak – Explained

Squeaky Porsche brakes is a topic that comes up a lot here at Meister Werks. In some instances, days or weeks after the pads and rotors were replaced. There are many reasons that cause this. According to Porsche it’s not a bad thing. We fully understand where Porsche is coming from. Here is a very scientific TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) video on why your Porsche brakes may squeal…. sometimes.

At Meister Werks, we use high quality components when servicing your brakes. Sometimes even the highests quality parts will squeal from time to time. Here is a list of the reasons why you may be getting brake squeal.

Glazed Rotors

Porsche brakes are designed to be used. Since they are classified as performance brakes, they need to be used this way. If you are very light on the brake pedal, aka brake far before you should, this will leave a very minute amount of dust on the disc brake rotors. Furthermore, riding the brakes (having your foot on the brake pedal when you shouldn’t be breaking) will cause this to happen very rapidly. This unnecessary friction causes heat, coupled with brake pad dust, will cause it stick or bond tightly to the rotor. This is essentially making a sticky glossy surface causing the squeal. Think of a new sneaker on a freshly polished basketball court. Brake disc rotors must to be a slightly rough for brakes to perform optimally, without noise. To ‘deglaze’ the rotors, there are methods of braking to clean the disc from this coating. Later discussed in this article.

Corrosion on the Brakes

Do you experience squeaking or squealing first thing in the morning? Maybe while backing up or while driving for the for only a few minutes? One of the few reasons the brakes squeak is due to corrosion. Yes, hours, sometimes minutes after parking your Porsche, the raw steel rotors will start forming a very thin layer of iron oxide, aka rust. This is a chemical reaction between 2 elements. Iron, the material the disc brake rotors are made of, and the oxygen that is in the air. If rain or water is present, this will accelerate the corrosion process. Since water has 2 oxygen molecules, causing the reaction to take place more rapidly.  Furthermore, salt air or water will accelerate this process even faster, due to more of the dissolved ions. This means electrons can move faster. Since rusting is all about the movement of electrons, iron rusts more quickly with salt air or water than fresh water or air. Using your brakes 2-3 times will typically clear the discs from the corrosion or rust.

Cold Brakes

The same experience with squealing brakes, first thing in the morning, can also be due to cold brakes. Porsche brakes are performance brakes, just shy of what racing cars have. The compounds Porsche uses are designed to perform when they are warm or even hot. A cold brake pad or disc can cause squealing. Again like when corrosion is present, using the brakes will increase the heat, causing the squeaking to go away. This sometimes takes a little longer, 5 minutes of driving may dio the trick, but we’ve seen up to 15-20 minutes with some brakes. If you have glazed brakes, this will not go away and the deglazing process will be needed.

Deglazing Brakes

By now you are probably asking, “How the heck do I deglaze my disc brakes?” The process is quite easy and usually will yield results on the first or second pass. First, you’ll want to be traveling on a road that is void of any people, traffic, or cars in front or behind you. Second, you’ll need to have a safe stretch of road to get up to 20-25 mph. 1/8 of a mile or more is best. Accelerate your Porsche up to approx. 30-35 MPH and push the brake pedal hard. If you can get the ABS to kick on, this will also help the deglazing process. We highly suggest not performing this procedure in the rain or poor weather conditions. Furthermore, if you do not feel comfortable doing this, Meister Werks will be to deglaze your brakes for you during a test drive at your scheduled maintenance, free 30pt inspection or repair.

Here is a before and after video from the Tulsa, OK Porsche dealership:

Maintaining Your Brakes While Driving

We highly suggest using your brakes like they are meant to be used. I know this might sound weird. What we really mean is don’t brake 1/4 mile before you need to. Use firm brake pedal pressure when stopping. Riding your brakes or stopped well before you need to is probably the worst thing to do for your disc brakes. Keep this in mind when driving. Remember, your Porsche likes being driven. When you follow these rules above, your Porsche will be much happier and you can eliminate any brake noise in the future.

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