But what exactly is a VIN, and how do you decode it to understand what it says about your car? Let’s break it down.

What is a VIN?

VIN stands for Vehicle Identification Number. Think of it as a vehicle’s fingerprint—no two are exactly the same.

• Every car, truck, or motorcycle built after 1981 has a 17-character VIN.
• The VIN is standardized worldwide, so it provides the same type of information no matter the make or model.
• It contains details about the vehicle’s manufacturer, model, year, engine type, and even where it was built.

You can usually find the VIN in several places, including:

• The dashboard (driver’s side, visible through the windshield).
• Inside the driver’s door jamb.
• On the engine block.
• On official documents like the title, registration, or insurance card.

Why is the VIN Important?

Your VIN is more than just an ID tag. It plays a crucial role in:

• Vehicle History Reports: Services like Carfax or AutoCheck use the VIN to track accidents, ownership changes, and service records.
• Parts Identification: Mechanics and parts stores use the VIN to ensure they’re ordering the correct components for your exact vehicle.
• Theft Recovery: Law enforcement uses VINs to track stolen vehicles.
• Recalls and Service Bulletins: Manufacturers issue recalls based on specific VIN ranges.

In short, the VIN protects buyers, owners, and even manufacturers by keeping a vehicle’s identity and history consistent.

How to Decode a VIN

A VIN may look like a random mix of characters, but every section has meaning. Here’s a breakdown of the 17-character VIN format:

1. Characters 1–3: World Manufacturer Identifier (WMI)
   • Identifies the vehicle’s manufacturer and country of origin.
   • Example: “1HG” = Honda USA, “WVW” = Volkswagen Germany.
2. Characters 4–8: Vehicle Descriptor Section (VDS)
   • Describes the vehicle’s model, body style, engine type, and transmission.
   • Example: A “P” in a certain position might mean it has a V8 engine, while another letter could signify a hatchback body style.
3. Character 9: Check Digit
   • A security code used to detect invalid VINs.
   • It’s calculated using a specific formula, preventing fake or mistyped VINs.
4. Character 10: Model Year
   • Shows the year the vehicle was manufactured.
   • Example: “A” = 1980, “Y” = 2000, “A” again = 2010, “N” = 2022, and so on (letters and numbers repeat in cycles).
5. Character 11: Plant Code
   • Indicates the specific factory where the car was assembled.
6. Characters 12–17: Production Sequence Number
   • The unique serial number for the vehicle.
   • No two cars made by the same manufacturer in the same year will share this sequence.

Example VIN Breakdown

Let’s take this sample VIN: 1HGCM82633A123456

• 1HG → Honda, built in the USA.
• CM826 → Accord sedan, 2.4L 4-cylinder engine.
• 3 → Check digit (confirms VIN is valid).
• 3 → Model year 2003.
• A → Built at the Marysville, Ohio plant.
• 123456 → The car’s unique serial number.

This VIN tells us exactly what the car is, when and where it was built, and confirms its authenticity.

Tips for Using Your VIN

• Always double-check the VIN on the car itself matches what’s listed on the title or registration. If they don’t match, it could signal a red flag.
• Use the VIN when ordering replacement parts, especially for engines, transmissions, or electronic components.
• Run a vehicle history report before buying a used car to avoid hidden accident damage or odometer fraud.
• Register your VIN with the manufacturer to receive notifications of recalls or service updates.

Final Thoughts

Your vehicle’s VIN is much more than just a string of numbers—it’s the key to unlocking its identity, history, and specifications. By learning how to decode it, you can protect yourself as a buyer, make smarter repair decisions, and better understand the machine you drive every day.

So next time you see that little plate on your dashboard, remember: those 17 characters tell the story of your vehicle from the day it rolled off the assembly line.

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As a nation, Americans love to drive putting an average of 13,474 miles on the roads ever year according to Motley Fool contributor Matthew DiLallo. The U.S. Federal Highway Administration says the average American drives 13,476 miles every year. With Wyoming leading the 50 states in miles driven 22,306 per driver at an annual cost of $1,917.34 (second highest) per year. Those trips to the gas pump really do add up, so how do we keep fuel costs from taking such a large bite out of our wallet?

Trucking companies and others in the transportation industry know one of the keys to maximizing fuel efficiency is to keep the trucks in good top working condition. According to Fleet Hall of Fame inductee and Over The Road Truck blogger, Mike Antich, the 2019 forecast is filled with corporate strategies to procure the most fuel efficient and task specific vehicles to add to their fleets. Aging fleets can seriously impact the bottom line in several ways fuel consumption ranking at the top along with deprecation.

While no one can change deprecation, we can take a hint from the transportation industry. The professionals and well informed “DYI-ers” can use diagnostic tools to help pin-point the perfect ratio of oxygen to fuel, timing lights to adjust the spark plug firing, and aftermarket modifications (mods as those in the know call them), to alter the vehicles default settings. Some states have statutes limiting aftermarket changes to the fuel/oxygen ratio. Be sure you are up to date on your training and states’ emission laws before you make any modifications.

However, there are simple steps professional drivers as well as average commuters can take to improve fuel efficiency. Most of the remedies for poor fuel consumption are basic. Don’t run the A/C at full blast on every trip, cut back on auxiliary items such as navigation systems and refrigerators, ensure your gas cap seals tightly, and most importantly: slow down. Another overlooked fuel saver is the basic tune up. Keeping your vehicle in top shape can boost fuel efficiency.

You can take your car in to a professional or you can do the job yourself. Be sure you have the basic tools for the job: socket set, screwdrivers, and ratchet are items most people already have on hand. Other, not so common items you may need are a spark plug gap tool, spark plug socket, collapsible magnet, tire gauge, and tread tool (tires are a part of the tune up too). Don’t forget electrical grease and your camera. The electrical grease keeps contacts from rusting and lets the electricity flow. Use your camera to take before and after pictures to be sure you put everything back in the right place the right way. Don’t overlook your cars owners manual. It’s a great resource to guide your tune up.

Another excellent resource is YouTube. Yes, YouTube. This is a great way to brush up on your tune up skills and learn the latest in car maintenance. Try searching for videos using the term ‘Hypermiling’. Hypermiling is the latest slang term denoting all the ways to keep your fuel efficiency up and costs down. However, the same basic rules still apply: keeping it simple is the best way to improve your autos performance. Bear in mind there are plenty of fuel saving myths out there too.

Some of the myths such as buying gas when it’s cooler so you get more are theoretically correct but don’t work in practice. According to Consumer Reports, most fuel stations store fuel underground which results in only small fluctuations in temperature no matter what the temperature is on the surface. They also have found that Low Rolling Resistance tires may save a small amount on fuel, however, keeping the tires properly inflated will make up the difference. They suggest buying good, all around tires.

To truly maximize efficient fuel consumption, though, improve your driving habits. Reduce your speed, keep your vehicle tuned, and tires properly inflated. These simple steps will keep more money in your pocket without taking away your American love of the open road.

Resources:

https://money.howstuffworks.com/personal-finance/budgeting/how-to-drive-economically7.htm

https://www.hmfracing.com/tech/2014/07/how-does-the-optimizer-work

https://news.nationalgeographic.com/energy/2015/11/151114-can-you-hack-your-car-for-better-mileage/

https://www.csmonitor.com/Business/In-Gear/2012/0627/Myth-busters-Consumer-Reports-takes-on-alleged-gas-saving-tips

https://www.cbsnews.com/news/6-myths-about-gas-mileage/

https://www.fool.com/investing/2017/01/14/heres-how-much-gasoline-the-averageamerican-consu.aspx

http://time.com/5306658/gas-pricescalculator/

https://gasprices.aaa.com/q1-gas-price-report-2018/

https://www.fool.com/investing/general/2015/01/25/the-average-american-drives-this-much-each-year-ho.aspx

https://www.fhwa.dot.gov/ohim/onh00/bar8.htm

Most of us are well aware of the damage the chill of winter can wreak on our SUVs, vans, and trucks but the heat and UV rays of summer can also harm our vehicles.

According to R.L. Polk, Americans keep their cars for an average of six years and most vehicles are resold at that time. Taking the time to summer-proof your vehicle is not only good for your car, it can add dollars to your resale price. Statista – The Statistics Portal, reported people are selling their vehicles at ever increasing rates.

Want top dollar for that car when you are ready to sell it? Make sure it looks good. The most obvious summer-time damage is to the paint and the dashboard. The UV rays of the sun can discolor paint and crack the dashboard until it looks like a model of the Grand Canyon.

BYK Laboratories explained that the UV rays breakdown the organic compounds in the paint like the binders which lead to the paint discoloring and drying out to the cracking point. Also increased dust because of dry, summer conditions can really build up.

Dust acts like sandpaper on your cars’ clear coat. The clear coat not only makes the car look good but more than that, it is the primary barrier against rust. The scratching effects of accumulated dirt and dust coupled with the drying effects of the suns UV rays, acidic insects from increased summer insect populations, bird droppings, and tree sap all have adverse effects on an otherwise beautiful and beneficial paint job.

Don’t forget, every trip to the beach we not only bring home sand in our shoes but also in our car, on our car and in our air filters. An air filters’ job is to trap sand, dust, and other particles to keep them from mangling our vehicles’ engines. Regular checks and changes of the filters will keep our engines running smoothly and a quick wash will rid the paint of the scratching sand.

Plastics and vinyl tend to absorb UV radiation more quickly than paint. This leads to crumbling windshield wipers, which do little good in the occasional August rain shower. One place you might not think of when you think of summer damage are the belts and hoses under the hood. Excessive heat from parking in the sun can damage these parts as well. It would be a good idea to check them a few extra times during the summer.

Summer Proofing Steps –

• Park in the shade whenever possible but be careful of parking under trees that might drip sap and be a favorite roosting spot for birds
• Wash your car often – once a week is recommended. Hand washing is recommended but having the vehicle on a regular washing schedule and hand dry – Don’t let it dry in the sun
• Protect interior by tinting windows, using a windshield sun screen and using a protectant on the dash
• Check and maintain all fluid levels
• Check and change the filters often

Resource list

https://newsroom.aaa.com/2018/06/47-million-americans-new-independence-day-travel-record/

BYK LABORATORIES BLOG

https://www.investopedia.com/articles/pf/08/preserve-car-value-vehicle-depreciation.asp

https://www.wikihow.com/Increase-Your-Car%27s-Resale-Value

https://www.thecarconnection.com/news/1090254_the-united-states-of-used-cars

https://www.statista.com/statistics/183713/value-of-us-passenger-cas-sales-and-leases-since-1990/

R.L. Polk

by: J. K. Luckhurst

Cars are great, right?  Combined with the power of smartphones and satellite navigation, it’s easy to feel like you are only a few taps away from the world.  Unfortunately, ‘IRL’ has its’ own way of doing things.  It definitely pays to have a back-up plan.  That, and a bit of know-how can help you get to your destination.

A roadside emergency kit can be a pain in the neck to lug around until you need it. While you can buy one pre-packaged, creating it yourself can be more rewarding, whether it’s for an extended road trip or your daily drive.

The contents can be divided into three basic categories: Food, Clothing and Tools.

Tools to consider include jumper cables or, better yet, a jumper pack. A small set of hand tools or multi-tool is always a good idea along with a first aid kit.  A headlamp or flashlight are invaluable.  Don’t forget a working jack and spare tire.

Food should consist of calorie-dense, snacks with a long shelf life, in case you get stuck.  Bottled water is a must.  And remember any special needs of your fellow travelers when ‘planning the menu’

Pack clothing such as rain gear, a warm blanket, hats and gloves can really be helpful in a bind.

The challenge is to balance the items you’ll most likely need and the available space, while considering your distance traveled and the reliability of your car.

Safe Travels!

The first thing you notice is that it looks like an old-school boombox.  That’s right, it’s a music machine.  With USB power AND data, AUX, and SD card inputs, you can even hook up your vinyl player!  It has a flashlight! (batteries not included).  With four colors to choose from, you can keep one at home, one on your boat, one in your golf cart and one at the shop.  Check out these cool stats:

• 40 qt. cooler holds up to 48 cans or 28 bottles and advanced insulation technology keeps ice frozen for up to 3 days. Comes with detachable cooler flashlight (3 AAA batteries not included)
• 350 watts maximum output power Bluetooth digital music player and FM radio with two built-in 6.5” Hi-Fi water-resistant speakers and two 2” high performance tweeters
• XLR microphone/instrument input, 1/4 inch instrument input, 12 volt power outlet plug (cigarette lighter port), 2 standard 3.5mm auxiliary jacks, powered USB port, USB data port and SD card slot to play MP3 /WMA music (supports up to 32GB)
• Built-in rechargeable battery lasts up to 16 hours of playing time and come with 100-240V AC/17V DC adaptor also built in weather resistant storage for iPad and charging compartment for iPhone/Smartphone
• Heavy-duty wheeled design with long, telescoping handle for easy transport and extra large side handles with convenient bottle openers

Don’t get caught with a hot soda.  Order one today and we’ll ship it to you for $9.95!

Sources: SONDPEX WEBSITE

What is Ingersoll Rand saying about this new impact?  “Built on Ingersoll Rand’s 100 year legacy developing industry leading tools, you can always rely on the 35MAX. This stubby impact wrench has been rigorously tested and pushed to the limits to make sure it lasts twice as long as the competition so you can get REAL WORK done time and time again.”  We couldn’t agree more!

“What about the torque?” you ask…

“Delivering 450 ft.-lb. of max reverse torque at only 2.4 pounds, no other compact impact wrench on the market can match the combined power and light weight of the 35MAX. With less added weight, you can power through those tough stretches of work in no time.”

This impact is so new that we couldn’t even find a video of anyone using it yet…so if you have one, shoot a video and send it to us!  We’d love to upload more videos of our customers using the actual tool!

Source: www.irtools.com

According to Robinair, “Eliminate countless hours searching for hard-to-find leaks with the Robinair 22791 Infrared Refrigerant Leak Detector. This tool uses infrared optics to create a leak detector that combines sensitivity, speed, battery life, portability, and ease of use.”

Ready to find out more?

Here’s the scoop on the Robinair 22791:

• Advanced infrared sensor designed to last a minimum of 10 years
• Three sensitivity levels down to 0.15 oz./year
• Automatically recalibrates in highly contaminated areas to help pinpoint the exact location of the leak
• Won’t trigger on oil or moisture
• Senses CFC, HFC and HCFC blend refrigerants
• 8-hour lithium Ion battery lasts all day long and beyond
• Visual alert and peak button make it easy to find leaks in noisy environments
• Audible alert with mute button
• Magnetic hanger to easily hang the unit during leak repair
• Durable carrying case lets you easily store leak detector and accessories
• Meets NEW SAE J2791 leak detection standard
• Certified to comply with the new SAE industry standard for use with R1234YF refrigerant

This leak detector is priced right and is currently available.

Want to review this product?  Send us an email with your testimony and it could be featured here and on our Facebook page!

To be completely honest, even the hardest working do-it-yourself-er cannot do a perfect paint job. But don’t feel bad about it, because there are even some specialty workshops that cannot do that. The great thing though, if you would see it, is that you do not have to get a paint job as perfect as the one a factory or one of those car shows on TV would. Just a few gallons of paint, and a lot of hard work, can get a car so close to perfection that no one would be able to tell the difference if you were cruising by. In fact, you can get it so close that even on close scrutiny, as long as the lighting conditions were not perfect, say on a cloudy day or late in the afternoon, most people could not tell the difference.

The secret of an excellent homemade paint job is in the quality and time you take to get the car and the painting environment ready. For one, you will need a shed or a garage of some sort that you can empty out completely and get it so clean that you could have an operation in there and not worry about infection. Next you need to get the car ready and here are the tools you will need to do that.

A Drill or a Rotary Tool

There is just one thing that ruins an existing paint job to the point where you will need to repaint the car, and that is rust. If your car is completely rust free and the paint is just faded you may want to consider simply giving the car a good polish. However, if you are dealing with rust you need to make sure that you can get rid of it all before moving on to a paint job or else you will see that rust coming back in less than 6 months; and that is if you are lucky. So you will need to use a rotary tool or a drill equipped with a wire brush and just clean up as much of the rust as you can. After that you will need to use some chemical cocktail that you can get at your local paint store, to eradicate that rust. Next you will want to use some filler to smooth out the rusted area, and then you will need to move on to the next tool.

An Oscillating Tool or an Orbital Sander

If you want to get a near perfect paint job, you will end up spending so much time with an oscillating tool in your hand that you will grow to feel naked without one. First, you will need to use the oscillating tool or the orbital sander to clean away the excess filler that you have used on the previous stage. Next you will need to use it to give the entire car a good key and you can do that by using 800 grit wet and dry sand paper. After that you will want to paint some sort of primer on the entire car, and give that a good once over with your sander tool of choice. And then, depending on how good you want to get your car to look, you will cover the car with anywhere between 2 and 5 coats of paint. After each layer, you will want to let it dry, sand it down, and add the next layer, and then sand it down, a new layer of paint, sander, and so on. Eventually, you may even want to put on a layer of clear coat, but, if you have done your job right with all that sanding, and seeing how clear coat has its own extra challenges, you may want to skip over that. And that leads us to the other important tool you have been using so far.

An Air Compressor and a Paint Gun

If you are to have any chance of actually coming close to a flawless paint job, you will need a good quality paint gun, and, since those only work with air compressors, you will need to get one of those too. You cannot really count on one of those electric spray guns because they do not have the ability to spray a thin enough layer of paint – perhaps this is where we should tell you that the paint needs to come out more like a mist than an actual layer of paint. Also, if you are planning to use paint from a spray can, you might as well just forget about every other step in the preparation process and just go for it because the end result will only be good enough for the scrap yard.